Balenciaga, Loewe, Chanel and other moments of the fashion season
After a month of spring 2022 fashion shows in New York, London, Milan and Paris, many of which were IRL for the first time since the pandemic, things may start to get blurry. However, there were some moments that stood out and got us excited for spring. This way …
By far my favorite experience this season, for many seasons. I loved that guests, including me, didn’t know until they entered the theater that they were in fact part of the red carpet parade, which was shown live on a giant screen inside. Indeed, it was difficult to tell who was a guest and who was a celebrity. But I guess it was Demna Gvasalia’s plan. The production went effortlessly, with rare comedic levity, and then we watched Marge and Homer Simpson, and the rest of Springfield, strut the Balenciaga runway in a film that once again demonstrated how star fashion makes people. –Cathy Horyn
Matthew Schneier agrees: Divine to Isabelle Huppert to Lisa Simpson pipeline! (Plus, Smithers finally gets her ball gown moment.)
Photo: Peter White / Getty Images
There were plenty of sexy clothes on the catwalks this season: low-waisted micro-miniskirts at Miu Miu, sleek bodysuits at Saint Laurent, Madonna-style tapered bras at Schiaparelli … But on closer inspection, there was lots of shoes to fetishize too. Dries Van Noten and JW Anderson both showed slippery, soft heels. Balenciaga’s knee-length leather boots made me want to run into a store and try them on, just so I could experience the ASMR of closing them. The shoes that caught everyone’s attention, however, were Loewe’s surreal pumps. At first glance, I could hardly believe my eyes. Could you actually walk on birthday candles and cracked eggs? Wouldn’t you slip on a bar of soap ?? The whole collection was a bit of a joke, or “strangely satisfying,” to steal a phrase from Instagram’s Explore page. Whether or not you find it to be a gimmick or a stroke of genius, it’s hard not to want to collect these shoes purely as items to admire. –Emilie Petrarch
A Victor Glemaud look.
Photo: Shannon Finney / Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows
Fashion has a nasty habit of anointing a flavor of the month, which often ends up being a flash in the pan when the collective attention shifts to the next hot girl. So it was especially heartening to see Victor Glemaud, a veteran designer with many lives in fashion, stage his first full show during New York Fashion Week. And joyous really is the word. When many designers get sullen or serious towards telegraphic sophistication, Glemaud emphasizes joy. Her knits are fun, sexy, shiny and flowing. The disco soundtrack didn’t hurt either. –Matthieu schneier
A Raf Simons look.
Photo: Peter White / Getty Images
It was a great season for Raf, with raves in Milan for his collection and that of Miuccia Prada for Prada, then a subtle but powerful show in Paris for his own label based in Antwerp. He is one of the few designers to have tried to reinterpret the tailor-made suit (in his case, with a skirt). He did other things in this mostly unisex collection, but the suits were the novelty, with a somewhat relaxed fit for the jackets and pleated skirts that grazed the knees. The straightforward runway images don’t do the look justice, however. You have to see it in profile to realize that the figure is fresh and cool. –Cathy Horyn
Vivienne Rohner at Chanel.
Photo: Laurent VU / SIPA / Shutterstock
I watched the Chanel show while waiting for Swiss model Vivienne Rohner to come out so I could look at her hair. It’s all about rocking for me – she has a little section of hair on the left side of her face that rolls over (different from the rest of the hair, that rolls around), and she bounced as she walked down the track . It was as if the flip had a story to tell. What is that? Why is it there? Where is he from? And I want it in my own hair. –Kathleen Hou
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood.
Photo: Kristy Sparow / WireImage
Emerging on the other side of the pandemic, both in life and in fashion, there is no doubt that we feel different, thoughtful, in more ways than one. A year at home meant looking deeply into our past. How deep? For Andreas Kronthaler, it was about revisiting some of his childhood treasures, including this Socrates toy doll and his own baby blanket that swaddles him. Sitting on top of model Lindsey Wixson’s head, we are tickled by this very faithful display of childhood nostalgia. –Vivian chuang
Christopher John Rogers for AZ Factory.
Photo: Kristy Sparow / Getty Images
The shows after a designer dies still feel like a celebration of life while being a bit sad, but Alber Elbaz’s AZ Factory, bringing in 45 houses and designers to participate in his show, was an exciting way. to recognize how Alber inspired the industry. I especially liked Christopher John Rogers’ rainbow silk dress with a chartreuse train. The bright colors on a silk canvas were like pure happiness. It was a tribute well done. –Asia Milia Ware
Photo: Peter White / Getty Images
Is wearing a coat inside out… chic? Celine Dion asked the question in 1999, on the Oscars red carpet, when she wore a white Galliano tuxedo jacket inside out – a particularly polarizing moment at the time (but perhaps would be celebrated virally now). More recently, the Cut has argued that the best way to wear a cardigan is inside out, which has sparked a lot of debate. The style choice can actually look good, and I would say that it visibly shows that you are adventurous and don’t take yourself too seriously. Plus, it practically doubles your wardrobe because there’s a whole new way to wear it all. Jonathan Anderson reopens the debate and settles the score. Wearing a coat inside out is indeed very chic. At least when you wear Loewe. –André Nguyen
A look from Bianca Saunders.
Photo: Courtesy of Bianca Saunders
The Bianca Saunders Spring Collection is the collection of men’s clothing that I would like to wear and then pass on to my boyfriend, if I had one. The collection has been described as “a selfless style of the summers before digital photography” in the collection notes. The notes also include a quote from Saunders about perusing old photos of his family and taking inspiration from the mix of casual and tailored styles. Every time I watch my dad’s’ 80s Polaroids fashion seems so easy. From tailoring, colors and matching ensembles, every look is like an easy-to-follow uniform or dress code. The dark denim jacket and flared jeans set is my favorite look. Denim over denim is spicy and it definitely inspired me to bring this combo back into my fall wardrobe. —Devine Blacksher